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Before a storm, locate and test your main water shutoff, clear your gutters and yard drains, fill bathtubs for non-drinking water, and know whether your home is on a well or a municipal supply. After the storm, assume the water is not safe until your utility says it is, and flush your cold lines before drinking. Those few steps cover most of what goes wrong with plumbing in a Central Florida hurricane.
Orlando is inland, which lulls people into thinking storms are somebody else's plumbing problem. They are not. What reaches us is rainfall volume, extended power outages and municipal system disruption, and all three hit plumbing directly. Shamrock Plumbing has worked through Central Florida storm seasons since 2003, and the calls afterward are remarkably consistent: sewer backups, failed water heaters, and people who could not find their shutoff valve in the dark. If something has already gone wrong, an emergency plumber in Orlando is reachable around the clock on (407) 326-3056.
These are the jobs that pay off every year, not just this storm.
This is the one item that matters most and the one most people skip. Knowing roughly where the valve is does not help at 3AM with water coming through a ceiling. Go and find it, turn it fully off, turn it back on, and note how long it takes. If it is stiff, corroded or will not seat, have it replaced now while it is a scheduled job. Our guide to finding your main water shutoff valve covers the usual locations in Central Florida homes.
This is drainage rather than plumbing, but it determines how much water ends up against your foundation and around your slab. Central Florida storms drop volume fast. A blocked downspout concentrates that water exactly where you least want it.
Storms expose existing defects rather than creating new ones. If your line has cracks or root intrusion, heavy groundwater infiltration during a storm is when it finally fails. A camera inspection tells you whether you are carrying that risk. Our guide on main line blockages and sewage backing up into the tub explains what that failure looks like from inside the house.
If your home has backed up during a previous storm, this is the fix that addresses the cause. A backwater valve lets waste flow out but closes if the municipal system surcharges and tries to push back toward your house. It is not appropriate for every property, but for homes with a history it ends the cycle.
Storm season is a reasonable prompt to check how old your heater is and whether it is secured. A unit already near the end of its life is more likely to fail when the power cycles on and off, and one in an attic is worth confirming has a clear drip pan drain. The water heater emergency checklist covers how to tell where yours stands.
Once a storm is genuinely tracking toward Central Florida, these are worth doing in order.
A filled bathtub gives you roughly enough water to flush a toilet for several days, which matters more than people expect during a multi-day outage. Use a bucket to pour water directly into the bowl to flush. Keep this water separate in your mind from drinking water, which should be bottled or otherwise treated.
Get the dirty work done while pressure and power are normal. Once the storm is close, you want an empty, quiet plumbing system rather than a dishwasher mid-cycle when the power goes.
If you are on municipal water, your risk is pressure loss and contamination notices. If you are on a well, your pump runs on electricity, so no power means no water at all unless you have a generator. Well owners should also know that flooding around a wellhead is a contamination event requiring testing afterward, not just an inconvenience.
If you are leaving, switch an electric heater off at the breaker and set a gas unit to its vacation or pilot setting. And if you are leaving for more than a day or two, close the main water shutoff entirely. A supply line that fails while nobody is home is how people return to a destroyed house.
If you evacuate, close the main shutoff. Every plumber in Florida has walked into a home where a ten dollar supply line let go on day two of an evacuation.
During heavy rainfall, municipal sewer systems run at or beyond capacity and groundwater infiltrates lines through every crack. Adding household volume at that moment increases the chance of a backup. Space out flushing, skip laundry, and avoid the dishwasher.
Gurgling drains, a toilet whose water level moves on its own, or a tub that drains slowly when it normally does not. Those are the warnings that come before waste water appears. If you see them, stop using water entirely and wait.
You have no water until power returns or a generator runs the pump. Do not try to improvise a connection to the pump circuit. Backfeeding a generator into house wiring is a serious hazard, and it is a job for a licensed electrician with a proper transfer switch.
This is not strictly plumbing, but it kills people every storm season. Gas water heaters, ovens and outdoor equipment are not indoor heating, and carbon monoxide is the reason. Generators go outside, well away from windows and doors.
The period right after restoration causes more problems than the storm itself.
When a system loses pressure, contaminants can be drawn into the distribution network, which is why utilities issue precautionary boil water notices. These are commonly issued after the weather has cleared, so check your utility's notices directly rather than assuming clear skies mean safe water. Boil vigorously for a full minute, or use bottled water, for drinking, brushing teeth, washing produce and making ice.
Once any notice is lifted, run the cold taps for several minutes each, starting with the one nearest where the supply enters the house. This clears sediment and stagnant water that settled in the pipes while pressure was off. Do the same for outside spigots. Replace or run water through refrigerator filters and ice makers, and discard ice made during the event.
If power cycled repeatedly, or if the tank drained down during a pressure loss and the elements ran dry, an electric heater can fail. Look for leaks around the base, listen for hissing, and check that the relief valve is not discharging. On a gas unit, confirm the pilot is lit and the flue is clear of debris. If anything looks wrong, shut it down rather than leaving it running.
Walk the property. Ground saturation and wind can shift outdoor plumbing: a cracked hose bibb, a dislodged cleanout cap, a sagging exposed pipe, a wellhead sitting in standing water. A dislodged cleanout cap in particular is worth fixing quickly, because it lets debris and surface water straight into your sewer line.
Photograph water damage, saturated materials and any plumbing failure before you clean up or remove anything. Insurers handle storm claims on evidence, and evidence gathered after cleanup is worth considerably less.
After a storm, plumbers are busy, so it helps to know what genuinely cannot wait.
Sewage backing up into the house. Water running that you cannot stop. A water heater leaking from the tank body. Any smell of gas, which is a call to your gas utility first and from outside the house.
Reduced pressure that has not recovered after flushing the lines. Discoloured water that persists once a notice is lifted. A drain that has become slow since the storm. A water heater producing less hot water than it used to. A shutoff valve you discovered does not work.
After a significant storm, every plumber in Central Florida is working through a backlog, and crews prioritise active flooding and sewage over slow drains. Knowing which category you are in, and saying so clearly when you call, gets you to the right place in the queue faster. If you want a sense of what after-hours work costs before you pick up the phone, our breakdown of emergency plumber costs in Orlando sets out the ranges.
If you are evacuating, yes, close the main shutoff. A failed supply line in an empty house causes enormous damage before anyone notices. If you are staying, leave it on so you have water, but make sure you know how to close it quickly if something breaks.
Groundwater infiltrates cracked lines and municipal systems run at capacity, so there is nowhere for the volume to go. A line that copes fine in normal conditions can back up simply because the system downstream is full. Homes with existing cracks or root intrusion are affected first.
For flushing toilets and basic washing during an outage or supply interruption. Pour it into the bowl with a bucket to flush. This is not drinking water; keep bottled water separately for that, along with anything you use for brushing teeth or making ice.
It is a precautionary advisory issued when a water system loses pressure, because contaminants can be drawn into the distribution network. It stays in effect until the utility completes testing, which is typically a matter of days but varies. Check your own utility's notices rather than assuming, since these are often issued after the weather has cleared.
Discolouration after pressure is restored is usually sediment disturbed in the mains, and it normally clears after running cold taps for several minutes. If it does not clear, or if there is a boil water notice in effect, do not drink it and contact your utility. Persistent discolouration afterwards is worth having looked at.
On municipal water, usually yes, though pressure may drop if the utility's own equipment is affected. On a private well, no. The pump is electric, so no power means no water at all until it returns or a generator runs the pump through a properly installed transfer switch.
If your home has backed up before, particularly during storms, it is the most effective preventive measure available. It allows waste to flow out but closes when the municipal line surcharges. It is not right for every property, so it needs assessing against your line's layout and condition.